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Book review: THE SQUARE: THE COOKBOOK. Vol 2: SWEET by Philip Howard

| 28 June 2013 | 1 Reply

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
Reviewed by Shane Pinnegar

The Square cookbook Vol 2 Sweet by Philip Howard book

With bookstore shelves groaning under the weight of a glut of tomes by every amateur wannabe who gets fifteen minutes on the idiot box, a REAL cookbook by a REAL chef who runs a REAL restaurant is a welcome find.

In Volume 2 of his culinary memoirs, Philip Howard gathers together sweet recipes from 21 years of his Mayfair, London restaurant The Square.

And what recipes they are, proving beyond dispute that he deserves both the Michelin Stars The Square have attained in that two-decades-plus.

Sumptuous photography that will make the mouth water accompanies cleverly written recipes that break each one down into – inspiringly – an overview of what is required to cook the dish, tips on tricky steps to focus on, the dish’s key components to keep in mind, and timing – essential with some of the more complex desserts featured.

This is top notch, classy stuff that could grace the table of any fine dining recipe, and is bound to be a favourite among pastry chefs the world over. Howard’s style is inspired and features many modern takes on traditional elements, turning soufflés and cheesecakes and granitas into something quite magical.

That your average My Masterchef Rules contestant could muddle their way through these recipes is testament to Howards’s easy, confident style, but I would lay strong odds that only a real chef with extensive experience at his level could create dishes as wondrous as these.


Category: Book Reviews

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